Easter Pot Holder Tutorial

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Cut 2 egg shapes from your fabric.
Cut 4 pocket pieces from fabric.
Cut 1 egg shape & 2 pocket pieces from Insul Bright.






Sumber : http://missmarysews.blogspot.com




Modern pot holder tutorial

Do you like my new pot holders?…you can make them too!

You need 2 pieces of fabrics and 1 of special thermal stuffing about 9×5 inch (22×12,5cm), a label or a little piece of a nice ribbon and the template.

(Click here to enlarge and print the template…if you have any problem, please, mail me and I will send the template in PDF form.)

Draw the template on the fabric back side….
….and sew following the line to join the sandwich in this order.
Remember to leave an opening to turn inside out .
Cut the fabric around….

…turn inside out and press.
Stitch all around to close the opening and sign the middle with a decorative stitch.

Your new pot holder is done!

Sumber:  http://quiltycat-quiltycat.blogspot.com

Chicken or the egg quilted potholder tutorial

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The process


Cut your pieces

Cut your pieces

You’ll need two pieces of the “oven mitt top” plus 1 layer of the heat-resistant batting cut from the same piece.

More pieces

More pieces

You’ll need one fabric piece of the “oven mitt base” and one each of the “oven mitt back top” and the “oven mitt back bottom.” Cut two pieces of the heat resistant batting out of the “oven mitt base” pattern piece.

oven mitt tutorial 001

Curved seam

You’ll start by sewing the bottom of the mitt together. These curved pieces can seem tricky, but it’s not hard. If you’re not sure how to line up these pieces nicely, please refer to this quick tutorial I created for this project.

Quilt sandwiches

Quilt sandwiches

Now make quilt sandwiches. First, place your “oven mitt base” piece face-down, topped with the insulated batting pieces, then place your “back bottom” piece face-up (that’s the piece with the curved seam and left in the photo). Now pin in a few spots to secure it. Do the same thing with the “oven mitt top” pieces.

Darning foot

Darning foot

I like free motion quilting. I will do a more in-depth tutorial on this eventually. Basically, you need a darning foot. You have to lower the feed dogs on the machine so that you are completely in control of moving the fabric. 

(If you don’t want to do it this way, you can quilt any old way you want. You can draw lines with a fabric marker and quilt in a grid if you like. A walking foot is best for this, but if you don’t have one, just use a regular presser foot.)


Free-motion quilting

Free-motion quilting

Make a few stitches in place at first (the fabric won’t move unless you move it because the feed dogs are dropped). Then just push the pedal and start moving your fabric so that your sewing little squiggles. 

I highly recommend that you do a test run on a quilt sandwich made from scraps and mess with the tension until it looks right from both sides. I find that pressing the pedal so the machine is sewing fast and then moving at a steady but moderate pace produces good results on my machine.


Quilted pieces

Quilted pieces

Both sides quilted.



Now it’s time for the binding. You’ll want bias-strip binding for this because of the curved edges. Cut strips of 2.25″ wide binding from the scraps of fabric. I pieced together alternate strips from both fabrics and ended up with about 62″, which had plenty left over.

If you need more detailed instruction on cutting bias strips, please see this post.


Add binding

Add binding

As shown in the above link, your strips should be folded in half and pressed. Cut a piece to go along the curved top of the “oven mitt top,” leaving a little extra on each side to trim after sewing. The raw edges of the bias strip and the oven mitt top are lined up. The folded edge of the strip is pointing down. Sew a quarter-inch seam along the top. Press away from this side.

Turn binding and pin

Turn binding and pin

Turn the binding to the other side so that the folded edge of the strip is just past the seam you just sewed. You’ll pin from the front along that very seam, but check the back to be sure that you caught the folded edge of the strip in the pins, and that it’s consistently even.

Stitch in the ditch

Stitch in the ditch

We’re going to take the easy way out of finishing the binding, which is to machine sew by stitching in the ditch. The alternative is to hand stitch, which I’m going to do on the other part of the binding at the end. 

Here, you’ll stitch right into the seam from the front, catching the loose part of the binding that’s been folded over onto the back. It’s really hard to make this look perfect from the back side, which is why for most things I quilt, I hand stitch the back side so it’s pretty. In this case, the back of this will be the inside of the potholder and not too noticeable.

Trim off any excess on the sides.




As for the rest of the binding, your strips should be pressed in half longwise, and at one end, you’ll fold over a corner like this and press. Then trim the triangle off, just leaving a quarter or half-inch or so. Fold the strip in half all the way to the end.

Pin it all together

Pin it all together

Pin all of your layers together, with the “oven mitt back bottom” (with the fancy curved seam) facing down, the solid “oven mitt base” facing up, then the “oven mitt top” on top. You can turn this piece either way, depending on how you want the fabrics to show. 

Pin around the edge and baste the layers together.


Pin on the binding

Pin on the binding

You know that funny corner I had you do on the binding above? Now start with that piece. I put it on the right side of my potholder. Start pinning the binding around the edge of the potholder, raw edges together. When you get all the way around, measure a few extra inches of overlap and cut. Now unpin the first few inches where the funny corner is and insert the end of the binding inside of that corner. This eliminates any raw edges. I’ll show an even niftier way of doing this in my future binding tutorial. 

Now sew all the way around at a 1/4″ seam allowance.


Press binding away

Press binding away

Press the binding away from the side you just sewed it to.

Flip it around

Flip it around

Then flip it around to the back. Here is where the hand sewing comes in. You can try the stitch-in-the-ditch method if you want, but I chose to slip-stitch all the way around by hand.

Make hanging loop

Make hanging loop

Last part — make the loop to hang it by. I took about 4.5″ of extra binding and pressed a little bit of each end inward. There is actually a crease in the center, longwise. I then pressed each raw edge to the center, then folded the whole thing on the center crease and pressed, encasing all raw edges.

Sew loop

Sew loop

Sew the open edge very close to the edge.

Sew loop on by hand

Sew loop on by hand

Sew the loop to the top of the potholder by hand.

Sumber: http://warehousefabricsinc.com


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quilted potholders

Materials for one potholder:
1 – 8.5”x8.5” (unfinished) quilt block (we used the Broken Dishes block)
1 – 9.25”x9.25” piece of cotton quilting fabric for the back (you can make the back out of scraps so long as the finished piece measures 9.25″)
1 – 2.75” piece of cotton quilting fabric, cut selvedge to selvedge (or a minimum of 39” long) for the binding
Cotton thread to match binding

1 – 9”x9” piece of cotton quilt batting (I use Warm & White)
1 – 9”x9” piece of Insul-Bright*

potholder step 1

*(I buy Insul-Bright by the yard at fabric.com. If you don’t want to use this, I’ve heard you can use two or more layers of cotton batting…though I haven’t tried it so I can’t recommend it. Also, Insul-Bright is heat-resistant, not heat-proof…so always be careful.)

Step 1: Stack your materials in the following order: back (wrong side up), Insul-Bright (shiny side down), quilt batting, quilt block (right side up).

Pin your layers together. The two layers of batting tend to shift during quilting so this step is really important.

potholder step 2

Quilt as desired:

potholder step 3

Trim to 8.5”x8.5”

potholder step 4

Step 2: Now we need to machine sew the binding to the potholder. You can follow our tutorial or use your own preferred method (be sure to compensate for the extra thickness of the potholder when choosing a binding width).

Trim one end of your binding strip to a 45° angle, place along the edge of the potholder (right side down) and fold over the edge ½” (I like to press it with the iron to get a nice crease).

potholder step 5

Fold your binding strip in half and pin ½” away from the edge.

potholder step 6

Start sewing at the pin and sew approximately 3/8” away from the side.

potholder step 7

Continue until about 3/8” from the end of the potholder. Cut threads and remove from machine.

potholder step 8

At the corner, pull back the binding perpendicular to the binding you just sewed down:

potholder step 9

Then, fold the binding strip back over itself at the edge of the potholder. Hold in place:

potholder step 10

And pin to secure your fold:

potholder step 11

Begin sewing from the edge and keep 3/8” away from the side.

potholder step 12

Repeat this process for the next three corners. Before you sew the last corner, trim the binding strip at an angle. Make sure it overlaps the beginning of the strip by about ½”.

potholder step 13

Tuck the edge under the folded edge and pin in place.

potholder step 14

Sew until your stitches overlap and trim off the little triangle to reduce bulk:

potholder step 15

I like to trim the corners a bit to prevent the binding from getting too bulky. If you want to do this, trim off a sliver of batting…but make sure to do it in exactlythe same place I did in the picture. If you trim the other side of the corner, you’ll cut a hole in your binding.

potholder step 16

Press your binding away from the center (I use an iron to get a sharp edge)

potholder step 17

Step 3: To finish the potholder, we need to hand sew the binding to the back (you can use your machine if you like attaching binding that way).

Turn binding to the back side of potholder and use pins to hold it in place. Pick a thread that matches your binding.

potholder step 18

Now we’ll whipstitch the binding to the back. First, tie a knot at the end of your thread and insert the needle near the edge of the potholder where it will be covered by the binding. Bring the needle up where the edge of the binding will be when it’s folded into place.

potholder step 19

potholder step 20

Press the binding down and bring up the needle through the edge of the binding (from the bottom).

potholder step 21

Insert the needle into the potholder through the batting only and bring it back up through the edge of the binding.

potholder step 22

potholder step 23

Continue on until you reach the seam. I like to do a few whipstitches up the seam to keep it from popping open.

potholder step 27

Continue on until you get close to the corner. When you’re about 3/8” inches away from the edge, stop stitching and press the binding down like in the picture.

potholder step 28

Fold the binding up to make a mitered corner.

potholder step 29

I like to take a few stitches up the miter to tack it into place before continuing on.

potholder step 30

When you run out of thread, make a stitch and run your needle through to the edge of the potholder where you won’t see a knot.

potholder step 31

Tie a knot and start a new length of thread.

potholder step 32

Sumber: http://modifytradition.blogspot.com

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