Warna Dalam Bahasa jerman

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rot : merah
gelb : kuning
grün : hijau
weiβ : putih
blau : biru
grau : abu – abu
rosa : pink
braun : coklat
türkis : toska
schwarz : hitam
violett : ungu
bunt : warna – warni

Bulan Dalam Bahasa Jerman

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Januar
Februar
März
April
Mai
Juni
Juli
August
September
Oktober
November
Dezember

Angka Dalam Bahasa Jerman

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0 = null
1 = eins
2 = zwei
3 = drei
4 = vier
5 = fünf
6 = sechs
7 = sieben
8 = acht
9 = neun
10 = zehn
11 = elf
12 = zwölf
13 = dreizehn
14 = vierzehn
15 = fünfzehn
16 = sechzehn
17 = siebzehn
18 = achtzehn
19 = neunzehn
20 = zwanzig
21 = einundzwanzig
22 – 29 aturannya: angka+und+zwanzig
30 = dreiβig
40 = vierzig
50 = fünfzig
60 = sechzig
70 = siebzig
80 = achtzig
90 = neunzig
100 = (ein) hundert
atau
1= eins (ains)
2= zwei (tcwai)
3= drei (drai)
4=vier (vier “r dibaca agak samar, emnggunakan e dalam seperti”)
5= fünf (u agak dibaca seperti eu)
6= sechs (zeks “menggunakan e dalam “bebek”)
7= sieben (ziben “menggunakan e dalam “sebuah”)
8= acht (ah)
9= neun (noin)
10= zehn (cen “menggunakan e dalam teko”)
11= elf (elf “menggunakan e dalam bebek”)
12= zwolf (cwolf “menggunakan o dalam toko”)
13= dreizehn (draicen “menggunakan e dalam teko”)
usw (dan seterusnya)
16= sechzehn (zehcen “menggunakan e dalam “bebek” lalu dalam “teko”)
17= siebzehn (zibcen “menggunakan e dalamteko”)
20= zwanzig (cwancih)
30= dreißig (draicih)
60= sechzig (zehcihh “menggunakan e dalam bebek”
70= siebzig (zibcih)
100=hundert (hundert)
1000= tausend (tausen “menggunakan e dalam seperti”
48= achtundvierzig (ah un viercih)
125=einhundertfünfundzwanzig
3864= dreitausendachthundertvierundsechzig
NB: Penulisan angka pada bahasa Jerman tidak menggunakan spasi seperti di indonesia
contoh: IND (dua puluh lima), DEUTSCH (fünfundzwanzig)

Belajar Bahasa Jerman

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Dalam pembelajaran bahasa khususnya bahasa Jerman, terdapat empat keterampilan yang harus dikuasai oleh seseorang pembelajar bahasa Jerman. Keempat keterampilan itu adalah, keterampilan membaca (Lesefertigkeit), berbicara (Sprechfertigkeit), menyimak (Hörfertigkeit), dan menulis (Schreibfertigkeit)
Pada materi ini penulis akan menerangkan sekilas tentang membaca dalam bahasa Jerman. Cara baca kata atau kalimat bahasa Jerman tidaklah sulit seperti bahasa inggris, perancis ataupun bahasa yang lain. Sebagian besar kata atau kalimat bahasa Jerman dibaca sesuai dengan apa yang tertera pada tulisannya. Untuk lebih jelasnya penulis akan menerangkan dan memberikan contoh cara membaca tulisan bahasa Jerman.
Huruf abjad dalam bahasa Jerman
Aa Be Ce De Ee eF Ge Ha Ii Jot Ka eL eM eN Oo Pe Qu eR eS Te Uu Vau We iX Ypsilon Zet Ääa-umlaut Üüu-umlaut Öőo-umlaut βEsZet

Tidak jauh berbeda dengan bahasa Indonesia. Hanya yang berhuruf tebal saja yang berbeda. Itu pun berbeda pengucapan hurufnya, tapi bila sudah ada di dalam kata, bunyinya akan sama dengan bahasa Indonesia
Contoh:
Qualität – dibaca: kualitet
variabel – dibaca: fariabel
Januar – dibaca: Yanuar
Wolf – dibaca: Volf
Zebra – dibaca: Tsebra
Typ – dibaca: tüp (ü lihat penjelasan di bawah)
Tapi ada tambahan huruf lagi dalam bahasa Jerman, yaitu umlaut:
ä (a umlaut), biasa juga ditulis dengan ae
ö (o umlaut), biasa juga ditulis dengan oe
ü (u umlaut), biasa juga ditulis dengan ue
Nah ini yang susah. Susah untuk menuliskan bagaimana ketiga huruf umlaut itu dibaca. Harus mendengar dan melihat langsung. Tapi kira-kira begini:
ä – pengucapannya mirip dengan pengucapan e
ö – pengucapannya antara mengucapkan o dan u (mulutnya mancung ya…)
ü – pengucapannya antara mengucapkan u dan e (mulutnya mancung ya…)
Masih ada satu huruf lagi: ß (eszett). Ini cara membacanya gampang. Jangan panik dulu melihat bentuknya. Membacanya seperti membaca huruf s yang ‘tajam/tebal’ atau double s – ss.
Contoh: Grüßen dibaca: Gruessen.
Lalu ada lagi gabungan beberapa huruf yang sering dipakai dalam bahasa Jerman:
äu – dibaca oi/oy
ch – dibaca kh tebal
ck – dibaca k
ei – dibaca ai
eu – dibaca oi/oy
ie – dibaca i panjang
sp, st – bila diawal kata dibaca dengan s seperti syin atau sh atau sy; bila ditengah dibaca tipis seperti biasa
sch – membacanya juga seperti s pada syin atau sh atau sy.
Masih ada lagi beberapa huruf yang sering ditulis berdekatan. Tapi cara membacanya biasa saja seperti bahasa Indonesia.
Misalnya: Pf dalam Pfau (merak) dibaca Pfau seperti biasa.
Kasus lain:
– pengucapan huruf h. Bila huruf h terdapat di tengah kata, maka h ‘tidak dibaca’, tapi membaca a nya agak panjang aa.
Contoh: Mahnung – dibaca Manung.
– pengucapan huruf s. Bila huruf s diikuti vokal, maka dibaca z.
Contoh: Sonne – dibaca Zonne
– -ig. Bila ig terletak di akhir kata, maka dibaca ih.
Contoh: billig – dibaca billih
Sebetulnya masih ada lagi, yaitu akhiran -en, pada kata kerja bentuk dasar bahasa Jerman. Akhiran -en, ini biasanya diucapkan tak jelas.
Misalnya: machen – dibaca: mach‘n
Demikian dasar-dasar cara membaca satuan terkecil kata dalam bahasa Jerman. Mudah-mudahan tidak ada yang tertinggal.
Satu catatan: Pada kenyataan sehari-hari kerap terdengar ketakpersisan cara membaca/mengucapkan dari orang-orang native Jerman sekalipun. Hal ini dikarenakan- seperti juga pada semua bahasa di dunia- ‘pengucapan bahasa’ atau pronounciation memang bukanlah ilmu pasti. Ia dipengaruhi oleh dialek, tempat/lokasi, dan juga tingkat pendidikan.
Sebagai penutup berikut ada beberapa contoh sekedar untuk melengkapi:
– Michael Schumacher – dibaca: Mikhael Shumakher
– Winter – dibaca: Vinter
– Vogel – dibaca: Fogel
– Läufer – dibaca: Loyfer
– meine – dibaca: maine
– Europa – dibaca: Oyropa
– zurück – dibaca: tsuruek
– Biene – dibaca: Biine
– spät – dibaca: shpet
– Jaguar – dibaca: Yaguar
– Google – dibaca: Google
– Porsche – dibaca: Porsye
– Dr. Seuss – dibaca: Doktor Soyss

 

Sumber:

Daftar pustaka
Dian Satriana,Ellyza(2007),Cara Membaca Dalam Bahasa Jerman,http://deutschlandisjerman.allespedia.com, 6 Oktober 2009
Afif (2007),Cara Membaca Dalam Bahasa Jerman,http://afifclever.blogspot.com, 6 Oktober 2009

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My first three rulers shapes 
(I will announce the other 2 shapes at a later date)
are designed to fit precut fabrics…
 and the first shape to be released at is the “Circle Ruler”.
These rulers come in 4 different sizes and are sold together as a set.
 
The circles can be used with a rotary cutter but for the project I am doing today…I used them as templates.

 

The smallest works perfectly with a 2 1/2″ square…making it easy to use with a 2 1/2″ strip of fabric.

 

Or you can also use the smallest circle ruler to get 4 circles from a 5″ square precut. 

 

The next size up fits the 5″ square precut too!

 

The next size fits a 7″ square of fabric…

 

And the largest size in the set fits a 10″ square!
For my new pattern I sewed four 5″ squares together into a 4 patch and then laid my large circle ruler on the back of the block and lined up the marked lines on the ruler with the seam…

 

And traced around the edge with a mechanical pencil.
 
I cut a square of lightweight non-fusible Pellon interfacing….
And pinned my marked 4 patch with the right side onto the Pellon.

 

I took it over to my machine and stitched directly onto my marked line…completely around the circle and making sure to backstitch at the beginning and the end.
 
*It helps to use an open toe foot for this so that you can see exactly where your needle is going into the fabric.

 

After sewing the circle…I trimmed an approximate 1/4″ seam allowance all the way around…

 

like this.

 

Then I lifted the Pellon away from the circle and cut a slit for turning.
I used scissors for this because they were right there and handy…but a seam ripper works great also.

 

The slit does not have to be very long…

 

Just long enough to turn right side out like this.

 

Smooth the edges and then press flat…

 

And you have a completed perfectly shaped circle the exact size of the ruler!

 

I machine appliqued a prepared smaller circle onto the center of the 4 patch.
Then I pressed a white background square in half both ways to mark the center…
and centered my 4 patch circle on top and pinned it into place…

 

and machine appliqued the large 4 patch circle to the white square.
 
I continued making lots of dots…

 

Using all 4 sizes of the Circle Rulers…
 

 

and using my machine to appliqué.
 

QUILTY PROJECT

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Recently I’ve had several people ask me how I bind my quilts.
So I thought that this would be a perfect time to show you how I do it:)
 
 
Yesterday I made a quilt for Dolly and I took pics of my machine quilting and binding process.
It’s the same way that I bind every quilt or project…no matter the size.
 
I’m no stranger to hand quilting…
I grew up around the quilting frames.
But because of my design schedule…
I usually send my quilts out to be machine quilted.
That seems to be the norm now a days and
 I do love me a beautiful machine quilted quilt!



 
When I have smaller projects such as my new Dolly quilt…
I simply quilt them on my Bernina.
I cut my backing fabric a few inches larger than my quilt top…
around all 4 sides.
 I cut my batting the same size as my backing fabric.

 

 
I ALWAYS use a walking foot when I am machine quilting. 
A walking foot allows the top, middle and bottom layer of the quilt
 to feed through the machine at the same speed…
so that means no shifting… gathering or puckers when quilting.
Nice!!! 

 

 
After I have finished my quilting…
 
 
I quilt 1/8″ from the edge to hold it down nice and flat for binding…
then I trim the excess batting and backing fabric away.

 

 
Sometimes I like to add trim in my bindings.
For the Dolly quilt…I sewed 1/2″ pink ric-rac on the edge.
I fold the rid-rac like this on each corner and if there is any 
ric-rac sticking out past the edges of the quilt…
I simply trim it off. 
Don’t worry about those trimmed off edges fraying…
they will be within the binding:)
 
 
 
When I take my 1/4″ seam allowance with the binding..it will look like this.

 

 
I cut two 2 1/2″ x Width of Fabric strips for the binding.
For this quilt I will need about 80″ of binding.
 
My formula for determining how many inches I need for a quilt goes like this.
1. Measure the length of all 4 sides of your quilt top.
2. Add them together.
3. Add 10″…
4. That is how many inches you will need!
 
*NOTE – if you are binding anything that has a curve at all to it…
you will need to cut your strips on the bias!!!

 

 
I cut the selvedge off of each strip….

 

 
And join them together on the diagonal…

 

 
like this.

 

 
I trim off the excess…

 

 
And press the seams open for less bulk around the edge of the quilt.

 

 
Then I press the whole strip in half with WRONG SIDES together.

 

 
I unfold one end and fold it down like this…

 

 
And then fold it back to wrong sides together.
 
 
I place the raw unfolded edges even with the edges of the quilt….
the fold goes towards the inside of the quilt top.
I start by sewing the end I have folded like this….
 and I leave a tail by stitching about 2″ down from my fold.

 

 
I use a 1/4″ seam allowance and 
I always use my walking foot when sewing on binding to keep the layers even.
I keep sewing until I am 1/4″ from the first corner.
I lift the foot up …leaving the needle down and pivot the quilt on an angle like this.

 

 
Then I sew at an angle off the edge of the corner and clip my threads.
I DO NOT CUT MY BINDING STRIP AT ANYTIME.
 
 
Then I lift the binding straight up…
 

 

 
And fold it back down like this.

 

 
The raw edges are even with the side of the quilt again
 and I’m ready to sew the binding on the next side of the quilt.

 

 
When starting on a new side…
I simply start at the top…
sewing through the folded corner and backstitch at the beginning to secure.

 

 
I continue sewing all 4 sides of the quilt and do each corner exactly the same as the first one.
 
 
When I get back to the side where I started…
I trim the end on the diagonal …

 

 
Making sure that I leave it long enough so that I can 
unfold the folded tail at the beginning and tuck it inside…

 

 
like this.

 

 
Then I simply continue sewing until I reach my first stitches…

 

 
Then I sew on top of them about 1/2″ and backstitch.
By tucking the raw edge inside the folded end that I started with…
I have a completely finished seam!

 

 
Then I fold the binding to the back of the quilt and whip stitch it into place.
 
 
I always start my hand stitching where I started my machine stitching.

 

 
I do a blind whip stitch…

 

 
and I fold the binding just past the 1/4″ seam line on the back.

 

 
When I get to the corners I fold them over to the back and sew just to the machine stitching.

 

 
Then I fold the other side in just past the stitching and
 stitch them together with 2-3 stitches…like this.
I continue in the same way all the way around…
 

 

 
Until I get to my first fold in the binding. I also do a blind whip stitch to hold it down and the I knot off.
I hide my tail between the layers and trim…just like when hand quilting.

 

 
And my Dolly quilt is completely bound.

 

 

 

 

 

 SUMBER:http://beeinmybonnetco.blogspot.com 

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