Four-step Flagstone Quilt Tutorial

Hey everyone! It’s Jera from Quilting In The Rain bringing you this fun quilt top that you can finish in a weekend. Grab a Layer Cake and get this done within a few hours. Check out our 4-step tutorial below on how to do it.

And don’t forget… if you need help finishing your quilt, stop by the Stitch and Sew Studio for some one on one help, or stay tuned for our demo nights. Enjoy!

Materials for a ~36.5″ x 45.5″ finished quilt top:

  • 20 pre-cut 10 inch squares (one Layer Cake comes with about 42 squares)
  • Thread

Step 1 – Choose ten pre-cut 10 inch squares and lay them directly on top of one another making sure they are aligned. Using a ruler and rotary cutter, make a diagonal cut through all ten layers. Make sure the cut is similar to the one shown below (i.e. don’t make the cut too slanted).

After you make the diagonal cut, you will have two stacks of fabric: Stack A and stack B.

Step 2 –  From stack A, take the bottom piece and from stack B take the top piece. Place them together as shown below. Piece these two pieces together (with right sides facing together, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance). Repeat until stack A and B are all pieced together.

Tip: For faster piecing, you can chain piece:

Step 3 –  After you’ve completed Step 2, press open all of the blocks using an iron. Next, stack all of your blocks on top of one another, same as you did in Step 1. Make sure all the blocks are facing the same direction and are aligned. Rotate the stack and then make a diagonal cut again, as shown below.  Once again, you will have stacks A and B.

Repeat Step 2 with stacks A and B:

After sewing together, press open with an iron. A finished block will look like this:

Repeat steps one through three with ten more pre-cut ten inch squares so that you will yield a total of 20 finished blocks.
Step 4 –  Lay all 20 finished blocks in a 4×5 formation as shown below. To piece the quilt top together, first sew all four blocks together in each row, and then sew each row together. (Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew with the right sides facing each other, and then press open with an iron).

Step 1 

Picking out your fabric.-Try to pick quality fabric, the last thing you want is to go to all this work to have your fabric fall apart after a few washes. For this Tutorial I’m using Backyard Baby from Michael Miller and Moda’s dottie collection.

-When selecting your fabrics try to have between 7-9 coordinating fabrics. If you are making a smaller quilt it’s nice to use smaller prints that will read well in smaller squares.

-Choose a backing fabric at the same time, Flannel or Minky are my personal favorites but you could also use Fleece or quilting cotton. If your backing fabric is thin you will want to purchase batting to put in between the two layers. (Batting would need to be cut 1″ smaller than your front and back fabrics)

Step 2 – Sizing and Preparing
-Determine the size of your quilt, 6-8 inch squares are the perfect size. 6″ for baby quilts & 8″ for lap quilts – for a bedspread you could even go as high as 10″.
-Cut both the front and back pieces into equal squares. Remember, if you are putting batting in between cut it 1″ less so that it will fit perfectly. i.e. if your front and back squares are 6″ your batting should be 5″ squares.

Step 3 – Assemble your squares
-Pair your front and your back together, ugly sides facing each other.
-Sew a perfect X, corner to corner on each of your squares.
-If using batting (not seen in this tutorial) place the batting, one inch smaller, inside before sewing the X.

Step 4 – Quilt Layout-Lay out your quilt and arrange it to look exactly the way you’d like it to look when it’s completed. Sometimes this takes a while, but don’t over think it, just have fun with the designs. Random or in a pattern – it will look great.

Step 5 – Sew your Rows together– Facing two squares together, backing touching/pretty sides out, sew them together at 3/8″ – 1/2″allowance. If your quilt is smaller go with a smaller allowance, bigger quilts look good with a bigger allowance.Just make sure your allowance is consistant throughout the quilt.

This is what your essembled quilt squares should look like.

– Are the pretty sides facing up?
– Is the seam also facing up?
– Now continue to essemble your full row the same way.

– Double Check that all of your completed rows are straight and are in the pattern you had originally intended before sewing the long rows together.

-This is a great time to make sure that the rows are almost perfectly the same size. If they are slightly – don’t worry – it will still look great. I’ll show you how to clean it up at the end.

Step 6 – Essemble Long Rows
– Sew one full row with it’s neighboring row, again, backing sides together and pretty sides out. The seam allowance should be on the front of the quilt.

Step 7 – Correct your mistakes & Sew Perimeter-When you’ve completed sewing your long rows together you may find that their are rows that are slightly longer than others, simple trim them up to make a straight line.
– After trimming the edges, sew the perimeter of the quilt with a running stitch at the same seam allowance you’ve been using.

Step 8 – Clipping & Snipping
– Clip and Snip EVERY seam allowance and the perimeter. Be very careful not to cut your running stitch.
– The closer you clip and snip the more raggidy your quilt will look. I prefer to use an angled scissor but there are spring loaded rag quilt scissors and fringe scissors that are wonderful too.

Step 9 – The Magical Step. Wash, Dry and Enjoy-Your final step is to Wash & Dry your rag quilt. This step is like magic, your quilt goes into the machine looking disheveled and uninspring. When it comes out of the dryer it looks beautiful, fluffy and cozy. The more you wash it the cozier it looks.

Quilted Advent Calendar

Finished size: 14″ x 20″
Pocket size: approx. 2″ square, large pocket approx. 4 1/2″ square

For this project you will need:

  • Permanent Fabric Marker
  • Steam-a-Steam (or other double sided fusible interfacing)
  • 6-inches coordinating ribbon (~1″ wide)

Assorted Fabrics:

  • (24) 3″ squares, for the small pockets
  • (1) 5″ square, for the large pocket

White Fabric:

  • (2) 3″ x 18″ strips, for lining the 2 longest pockets
  • (2) 3″ x 13″ strips, for lining the 2 shorter pockets
  • (1) 5″ square, for ling the square pocket
  • (1) approx. 10″ square, for making number circles
  • (1) 13″ x 19″ rectangle, for the front
Backing Fabric (will also be folded over to create binding on the front):
  • (1) approx. 15″ x 21″ rectangle (a fat quarter could work)
Fusible Fleece:
  • (1) 13″ x 19″ rectangle (or a larger piece of quilt batting)
PART 1: Making the Pockets

Arrange your squares into two rows of 7 and two rows of 5.

Sew the rows together using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Press the seams open.

Lay the strips of white on top of your rows with the right side of the colored fabric against the white.

Stitch around each row 1/4″ from the edge.  Leave a gap so that you can turn it inside out.

Clip the corners (not too close to your stitching) and turn the pocket inside out.  Get the corners as pointed as you can, but don’t fuss over them too much.

Press again.

Top stitch all the way around the pockets, close to the edge.

Repeat the same steps to complete the 5″ square pocket.

Part 2: Making the Numbers
This part doesn’t involve sewing.   So if you have a helper who you can trust with a pair of scissors and an iron, you could outsource this part of the project.

I traced small circles onto my white fabric using a regular pencil.  I discovered that tracing my spool of thread created a nice circle, slightly larger than 1″.

Print out the numbers 1 through 25 in a stylish font and then trace them onto your white fabric with a permanent fabric marker.

Heat set the ink, following the directions on the fabric marker packaging.

Peel off one side of the steam-a-seam and place the fabric on top.

Cut out the circles inside the pencil marks.

Peel off the other side of the Steam-a-Seam and place numbers onto the squares.

Adhere the numbers following the directions on the Steam-a-Seam packaging.

Part 3: Putting it Together

If you are using fusible fleece, fuse it to your front white fabric first following the directions on the packaging.

If you are using batting, you’ll want it to be several inches larger than your front fabric on each side.  Don’t trim until after everything is sewn together.

Make a “quilt sandwich” with backing on the bottom, fusible fleece (or batting) in the middle, and front fabric on top. Arrange the pockets on the very top and pin everything together.  (Use lots of pins!)

Switch the foot of your sewing machine to a walking foot, if you have one.  It will help keep all the layers of fabric from shifting.

Begin stitching in the top corner of each pocket and stitch down the side.  Lift the pressure foot and rotate the fabric 90 degrees.  Lower the pressure foot and continue stitching along the bottom of the pocket.

Before you reach the seam between the squares, rotate 90 degrees and
go up to make a pocket divide.  When you reach the top of the pocket, rotate 90 degrees and make a few stitches along the top of the pocket.

Rotate and stitch down the pocket again.  Continue in this manner until your reach the end of the pocket.

Repeat for the remaining pockets.

If you used batting instead of fusible fleece, now is the time to trim it to the size of the front fabric.

Trim the backing fabric to 1″ beyond the front on each side.

Following Jera’s instructions for Quick Quilt Binding, fold the edge of the backing over onto the front and pin in place.

Top stitch close to the folded edge.

For hanging:  Cut two 3″ long pieces of ribbon.  Fold each piece in half lengthwise and sew the ends together.  Turn inside out and pin to the back of the calendar, as shown.  Stitch in place.
That’s it.  You’re done!
Now you can fill the pockets with toys, treats, or little notes and start counting down to Christmas day.
Happy Holidays & Happy Stitching!!